Abena Anim-Somuah is a James Beard award-winning food writer, cultural commentator, and former podcast host. Passionate about food’s transcendental power to connect and ground us, she especially loves sharing stories about emerging voices and immigrants who are making an impact on the American food landscape. Her writing has been published in Vogue Mexico and Synonym Magazine, and she herself as been featured inThe New York Times,Eater, andVanity Fair. She’s currently working as the Special Projects Associate at Daly, a boutique communications firm that supports brands that intersect community and culture. 

Abena refers to herself as a proud third culture kid, which she credits as the reason she’s so passionate about travel, exploring new restaurants, diving deep on niche regional cuisines, and trying to connect with chefs at any chance she gets. She’s based in New York City, where she’s more often than not yapping with friends at dinner, reading a book on a bar seat, or knee-deep in a pastry crawl finding her next favorite sweet treat. 

Where does your love of food come from?

I think I’ve always had a love of food in me. My mom tells stories of me gobbling up porridges and purees at lightning speed in my early days. In my youth, I was always thinking about the next meal, consuming any form of food media—from Food Network Canada shows to the NYT Cooking section— I could get my hands on. I guess my environment had some influence on it. My father is an agricultural economist who has made it his life’s work to feed people and empower them to work in farming. My mom is a serious home cook whose love language is feeding people. It was never a dull moment at our kitchen table growing up. Growing up in a small Canadian college town, my parents made sure we never forgot our Ghanaian roots, and food was one of the best ways to hold on to home. I have very fond memories of weekly trips to the farmers' markets and international specialty stores after tennis and soccer practices, my parents always invited people over to try Ghanaian food, and I was so lucky to grow up in one of the most bountiful areas of the world. Shout out Ontario produce! 

I loved hearing you talk about your connection to Ghana—your motherland—through food. What’s a dish that instantly brings you that feeling of home? 

Yes! I’m super grateful to have parents who love food and made Ghanaian food all the time. Now that I’m spending more time in Ghana, I feel like the foundational introduction to core Ghanaian foods has made it easy to enjoy foods when I go back home. My siblings and I can order in the native language, eat swallows with our hands, and enjoy the myriad of street foods. 

A dish that instantly brings the sense of home are fried plantains paired with a rich bean stew cooked in palm oil. In Ghana, we call it koko and beans. I think this is a dish that shows how hard my mom worked to keep Ghanaian culture on the table. Canadian grocery stores didn’t have much African food readily available, so my mom had to procure different ingredients just for this dish. Plantains from the Thai grocery store, black-eyed peas from the Caribbean market, and palm oil were nabbed during our monthly trips to the Ghanaian grocery store in Toronto. And now, when I’m sitting on my parents’ porch in Ghana enjoying it, the heat from the stew paired with the crispy and caramelization of the sweet plantains is so comforting! 

How do you see food as a vehicle for both connection, and representation? 

Food is the ultimate connector. There’s something intimate and spiritual about breaking bread. It allows us to connect, break down walls, and allows people to open up. I’ve been in the business of connecting people through food. I used to have a company hosting dinners, and years later, people still tell me how those dinners introduced them to their best friend, made them feel less alone moving to a new city, and allowed them to understand their inner love of food. 

When it comes to representation, I’ve personally experienced the beauty of talking about your culture through food and having others share that with you. When I was a kid, my mom was always the first to sign up for any multicultural event, spending hours making Ghanaian dishes to share with friends and neighbors. As I get to see and experience more of the world, food has been such a great way to understand a culture’s history and dynamics. I wouldn’t have understood the prominence of nuns and priests in French cuisine if not for trying caneles in Bordeaux or learning the immigration patterns of Lebanese people to Mexico City, enjoying some amazing taboulleh in the city’s downtown area. 

On that note, how do you personally honor Black History Month? 

Black History Month is no different than any other month for me. I’m always rooting for everyone Black, and I especially love supporting my friends in the industry who are doing amazing work to tell meaningful stories about the diaspora through food. Some of my favourite Black people in the food industry areChef Camari Mick,Nana Wilmot,Brittney Williams,Rasheeda Purdie,K.J. Kearney,Klancy Miller, andMuhammad Abdul-Habdi. 

While I grew up in a house where my parents worked hard to affirm my Blackness, I did struggle a bit to come to terms with what Blackness means to me. When you grow up in so many different places, you can never feel like you’re enough. But with lots of deep self-work, talking to friends across the African diaspora who have had a myriad of experiences of defining their Blackness on their terms, and reading a lot of literature, I am so comfortable in my skin and where I draw inspiration. 

This month, I was doing an audit of which Black businesses I can start to incorporate into my life. Our dollars have influence, and Black businesses constantly set the cultural standards and find it difficult to reap the financial gains. The 15 Percent Pledge has been a great resource for discovery and I’m impressed by the work they’re doing. Some of my favorites areHertunba,Kilentar,The Black Candle Co,Kahawa Coffee,Hanahana Beauty, andEadem. I also want to cook more African dishes at home. I’m trying to make one dish a week, and there have been some great cookbooks that have been great guides when my mom Whatsapp directives can be overwhelming. 

New York is currently home for you. Can we hear some of your favorite places to dine in the city? 

A great place to dine out must have great ambience, exceptional food, and friendly staff who make you want to be a regular. Here are a few places that hit these notes perfectly: 

I love the rugged East Coast nature of J.G Melon; their bacon cheeseburgers are a dream, and the staff are amazing. I’ve been twice in the last month, and one of the bartenders already knows my drink order.

I’m a big believer in the power lunch, and Gramercy Tavern has become the spot just for that! Chef Aretah Ettah is a brilliant visionary, and I’m constantly amazed at how she works with seasonal produce. On my last visit, I had this concord grape sundae that changed my life. 

I’m so close to finding an apartment near Stars because I think it’s an adorable spot, and I want to go on so many dates, both of the platonic and romantic persuasions. Incredible wine list, exceptional snack curation, and the lighting supports a comforting intimacy.  

When I was in college, my best friends and I had weekly dinners in Chinatown. Our old spot closed for a while, so we started going to Wu’s Wonton King. I love that it’s BYOB, the portions are generous and incentivize a group, plus the little mango jelly dessert at the end feels like a hug in food form. 

Each time I’ve been to Wild Cherry, I’ve been impressed. The menu is kitschy and comforting, I love that almost all the seats are booths, and their cocktail menu is impressive. I went there with a close friend in the dead of winter, and while we were enjoying mai tais in our Christmas sweaters, we immediately decided to make it a yearly tradition. 

We’re also in a big bakery era right now, and nothing motivates me more than getting a sweet treat after a long day. Hani’s cinnamon roll is incredible,Elbow Bakery’s pretzels with the sweet cinnamon butter never fail to hit the spot,L’Appartment 4F’sraspberry almond croissant is everything to me, andFrom Lucie’schocolate chip cookie is a dream. 

How do you decide where to eat when you’re planning a trip?

During the planning process, I spend time watching old Bourdain and Rick Steves episodes, reading old school blogs, and asking trusted friends who have visited. I then take all that information and plop it into a shenanigan spreadsheet. The more I travel, the more I realize that you need to have a balance of researching spots and also asking locals where to go. I love scheduling adventure days where the only goal is to get as many steps in, check out a few neighborhoods, and find a spot when you feel ready to eat. 

When I land in a new city, I always love to ask taxi drivers where they like to eat on their breaks. With this knowledge, I found an amazing taverna in Athens, a great pub in London, and one of the most incredible cooking experiences in Modena, Italy. 

What place is at the top of your travel list? 

Realistically, a hike on the Camino de Santiago, specifically the last 100km on the Portuguese route. I went on a trip through the area a few summers ago and got a glimpse of the Camino while driving through the charming towns.  I’m turning 30 this year, and I feel like it would be the perfect place to unplug, meditate, and reflect on my 20s and how I want to start this new chapter. 

In terms of dreaming, Japan! I know once I go, I’ll try and find a way to go many times over. I’d get there in business class of course, spend 3 weeks travelling through the country with a combination of organized days and free time to discover my own spots. I’d do the classic big cities, but I will find myself in a niche rabbit hole during research and find some small towns with some interesting food history or connection. 

Who is inspiring you these days? 

My friends! Part of living in so many places in my 20s is that I’ve met some incredible people who have kind hearts, are brilliant, work hard, and are doing seriously impressive things. I could spend this whole newsletter talking about them, but I’ll give three shoutouts. 

Poppy Powell: She runs three restaurants in Mexico City with her husband Federico, each with their own signature flair, an homage to her British roots and Seattle upbringing, and some of the best dishes I’ve ever had. 

Olivia Villanti: Olivia started an atelier in Mexico City called Chava Studio, where she makes shirting tailored to women. I just admired her discipline in building a sustainable business, her dedication to her craft, and also her clothes have made me embrace my body and appreciate my sense of style. 

Amber Mayfield Hewett: Amber is the queen of planning events. With her company,To Be Hosted, she is a superstar at creating and fostering spaces that encourage people to let their guard down, connect, and experience amazing food. She has a serious roster of clients and has a party planning book coming out later this year, which I’m really excited for!  

In terms of people whom I don’t know, I’m really inspired by women who are building inspiring businesses, are dedicated to supporting and empowering their communities, and have incredible style. 

A few people that come to mind are Brooke Devard, Chief Content Officer at Refinery29,Olympia Gayot, who is leading the iconic renaissance at J Crew as their Women’s Creative Director, andMeryanne Loum-Martin, the founder ofJnane Tamsna in Marakkech. 

Cooking at home or dining out? 

Both!!! Cooking at home is a great way to appreciate great produce, get your hands dirty, and just connect with food. I found the art of making something so relaxing, and a few things fill me with joy like spending all day in the kitchen and having the homies eat my creations. My best friends and I host an annual retreat, and we pick Airbnbs based on how great the kitchen is. 

In terms of dining out, we are in a golden age of eating out, especially in a big city.  Being in the food industry, I admire and look up to the chefs, bakers, cocktail artists, sommeliers, and restauranters who have made it their life's work to create comforting spaces to experience their creative interpretations and love letters to a variety of cultures. I love being at a table with my nearest and dearest, yapping as we enjoy incredible food and drinks, and then finding a way to chat with the chef at the pass or getting to experience the back of the house. 

February is the love month as we know. What dish do you make for someone to show them that you love them? 

Okay, I’ll go through some of the dishes I’ve made for friends and lovers, haha. 

For lovers, there was a Valentine’s Day when I made steak frites and Ceasar salad. Making fries at home is no joke. During the middle days of the pandemic, I made duck fat seared scallops and a mushroom risotto for a man on a second date. 

For my friends, I’ve made a seafood boil that we enjoyed on the porch of a summer house in Maine, Calabrian chili shrimp with all the grilled veggies for a girls' trip in Santa Cruz, Ina’s famous summer tomato pastry with BBQ chicken for a bestie’s bachelorette on St. Simon’s Island, and many pavlovas because it’s the perfect way to cap a meal. 

I’ve also recently become a homemade granola fiend and have started sharing my work with my friends. It’s a fun way to start the week and the aroma brings so much comfort!! 

What’s your favorite food-related memory? 

World’s toughest question! I would say the week that I spent in Modena, Italy. I think that was the trip that made me realize my deep love for food and sparked the decision to seriously consider a career in food. During the week, I kept experiencing these amazing opportunities—Airbnb in a Balsamic vinegar factory that has been in a family for many generations, running through a room full of Parmigiano Reggiano wheels, meeting so many incredible purveyors—because I had this insatiable curiosity and gratitude to learn from others. I think about that trip once a week, and the joy I experience is one I’m always seeking anytime I step out to do something food-related.